It’s a sad fact of life that precious relics from our past end up languishing in the attic or basement, forgotten and ignored. It is possible to keep such items clean and dust-free by using a glass-fronted shadow box.
An Overview of Shadow Box Operation
In order to view what you’re putting in the shadow box, there must be a glass front. The back of the box must be unscrewed to access the contents of the box since the glass is secured in place.
We’ll walk you through the process of removing an old door and putting this project together in the following phases. You’ll also learn how to fix holes and cut glass with these helpful hints. In the hope that a salvaged door can be found at a reasonable price, you may then spend a few hours in your workshop making your own antique shadow box. If you want to buy shadow box, please visit LightboxGoodman.
You’ll need to locate an old door.
This door has a transparent finish, which makes it easy to see the quality of the wood. Clear finishes don’t pose a risk of lead poisoning, but paint does. The door should be stripped down to bare wood before continuing if the paint tests positive for lead.
As illustrated, cut the door’s hinge-side stile using a circular saw equipped with a rip fence or fingers with a solid grasp on the saw’s shoe. (There are no doorknob holes in this stile.) One of the door’s flat panels may be freed by slicing along the other stile and rails as well.
Miter the Corners
Use a mitre saw to cut 45-degree mitres into the ends of all four pieces after the finish is dry, according to the cut list specifications. Each component should be placed against the fence with its dado and rabbet facing outward while making these cuts.
When cutting the back panel, make sure it is the correct size
From the inside of the rabbets, determine the box’s length and breadth. To allow the panel to shift with the seasons, subtract 1/8 inch from each measurements. To get these somewhat narrower specifications, use a table saw to cut the rear.
To begin, use the Glue.
Spread glue evenly with a cloth on the short end piece’s mitres, as illustrated. Repeat on the other end of each long side piece’s corresponding mitre.
Secure the Miter Joints
The end piece’s glued mitres should be in line with the glued mitres on the two sides. Make sure the dadoes and corners are aligned, then use two 2-inch brads to secure the pieces in place.
Take a Shot at the Cup
Mark the glass using a felt-tip marker using the rear panel of the box as a pattern. Reposition the panel so that the cutter’s wheel is centred on the markings if you want to use it as a guide for the glass cutter. With your hands covered in protective gloves, immerse the wheel into cutting oil and begin squeezing it along the panel.