Even those who know nothing about watches understand that no brand compares to Rolex. That’s both in terms of quality and brand image. There’s a reason it’s nicknamed The Crown, fulfilling the founder’s dream to “be seen as the one and only – the best.”
Since its origin in 1905, Rolex has released collections upon collections of luxurious watches, but a few models have stuck with us. These iconic Rolex watches were a hit when they were released and will be celebrated for years to come.
Wondering which ones to add to your personal collection? Keep reading to find our 15 picks.
Rolex Oyster
Founded in 1926, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual embodies the elegance and class of the Roaring Twenties. It was the first-ever waterproof watch, with its name inspired by an oyster’s watertight seal. In fact, to showcase its water resistance, this watch was displayed in a fish tank in the Selfridges department store.
That was enough to convince people to buy the piece. But it impressed even more when Mercedes Gleitz swam the English Channel wearing the Oyster. This model was waterproof thanks to three main features: its screwed-on case back, screw-down crown, and threaded bezel.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is an extension of the iconic Oyster, with Perpetual referring to the brand’s patented self-winding movement. It’s essentially the no-date, steel version of the Oyster. Now, each time a Rolex model’s name ends with Oyster Perpetual, that means it has the original waterproof Oyster case and winding automatic movement.
It was released 24 years after its predecessor. A crucial part of this watch is, of course, the perpetual rotor, which swings 360 degrees instead of the usual 200 degrees in bumper watches.
Rolex Explorer/Explorer II
Many watch lovers consider the Rolex Explorer and Explorer II their top picks due to their sheer simplicity. The original version of this model was iconic enough that it didn’t have to advertise itself. The design was simple but eye-catching, with 3-6-9 numbers shining against the deep black dial.
Even Bond writer Ian Fleming owned an Explorer, stating, “A gentleman’s choice of timepiece says as much about him as does his Saville Row suit.” He preferred the 36mm version simply because of its proportions and laid-back style. Many great men have chosen the Rolex Explorer, and so should you!
Rolex GMT Master
In 1956, Pan-American Airlines, holding a monopoly on trans-Atlantic flights, asked Rolex for a pilot’s watch to handle multiple time zones. The Rolex GMT Master, with a 24-hour hand and fixed timing bezel for monitoring local and GMT time, was the solution. Housed in an Oyster case with the signature “Cyclops” date magnifier, it became a hit.
Post-WWII, the GMT Master became popular among world travellers, particularly in the 1960s when tool watches became daily wear. In 1989, Rolex upgraded with the GMT Master II, which is another true aviation legend.
Rolex GMT-Master II
The GMT Master II takes us back to the glamorous era of flying before security lines and Crocs. It’s an upgraded version of the GMT Master with better movement and the ability to track a third timezone. Even with the newest iPhone, setting your watch to GMT, EST, or PST subtly flaunts your jet-setting lifestyle.
The GMT Master II is one of the most customisable models, with endless different watchband styles and dial colours. Rolex also introduced a left-handed GMT Master-II, winning the hearts of famous lefties like Declan Rice and Russell Westbrook.
Rolex Submariner
Rolex didn’t get to create the first-ever scuba-specific watch, but it did change the game by releasing the Submariner. An extension of the Oyster Perpetual, the Submariner added a rotating bezel and enhanced gaskets for scuba functionality.
By the 80s, this timepiece was more than just a diving essential; it was a style statement. Even as serious divers switched to digital watches, the Submariner’s allure persisted. Today, any watch enthusiast would kill to get their hands on this model, whether vintage or fresh off the shelf.
Rolex Yacht-Master
If you love the Submariner, the Rolex Yacht-Master will blow you away. Rolex took a detour with the Yacht-Master in 1992, a watch meant to relax on the sea’s surface, not dive deep. It’s perfect for anyone who prefers linen to the usual neoprene, and the 18KT white gold construction is also a step up from the Submariner’s steel.
Anyone who adored Brad Pitt before his Breitling days will remember the way he sported the Yacht-Master. Even Charlie Sheen rocked the 35mm version in the 90s. Rolex’s journey from the depths to the deck is as stylish as it gets.
Rolex Datejust
In the early 20th century, date mechanisms took hours to change over. Luckily, Rolex’s Datejust always changed just before midnight, earning its name “just,” meaning accurate. Its near-instant date display switch around midnight was the perfect innovation at the time.
Even though it has many variations, the Datejust is still instantly recognisable, with its fluted bezel and iconic date window magnifier (“cyclops”) considered the most iconic features in watch history. Although not all Datejusts feature a fluted bezel, it’s most often associated with the model.
The best part? The Datejust is fit for business, socialising, and play.
Rolex Day-Date
Debuting in 1965, the Day-Date was the first waterproof, self-winding, chronometer-grade watch that displayed the day and date instantly. Its layout, spelling out the entire day at the dial’s top, was one-of-a-kind in industrial Swiss watchmaking. It earned the nickname “The President” as it graced the wrists of many US Presidents.
The President’s timepiece, worn by figures like JFK and Ronald Reagan, has crowned links reflecting light from all angles. Even seen on the wrist of Tony Soprano, the Day-Date earned its place as a symbol of stature.
Rolex Daytona
Funnily enough, the Daytona’s significance boils down to its name on the dial. Rolex had been using third-party chronograph movements in Oyster cases since the 1940s, and the “pre-Daytona” model had been around since the ’60s. However, when Rolex sponsored races at Daytona, Florida, in 1962, they began printing Daytona on their Cosmograph models a year later.
At $400, the Daytona wasn’t too expensive compared to other Rolex timepieces. But after Paul Newman’s Daytona sold for $17 million in 2017, the watch became a hard-to-snag piece. That’s even more true for steel models.
Rolex Sky-Dweller
The Sky-Dweller may have a controversial reputation since it’s considered “too much,” but it’s still iconic. Its bold features make it hard to ignore: a 42mm case, vibrant fluted gold bezel, and an unconventional dial arrangement.
Beyond its water-resistant Oyster case and the caliber 9002 lies a marvel of modern horology. The Perpetual self-winding powers an annual calendar, with month markings around the dial and a traditional date aperture with a Cyclops magnifier. Plus, the eccentric 24-hour timing ring doubles as a GMT reference and an AM/PM indicator.
Rolex Sea-Dweller
While the Submariner excelled as a scuba watch, the Sea-Dweller took things deeper. It caters to commercial divers and explorers with long and deep dives. Its ability to withstand pressure at 4,000 feet in 1967 was groundbreaking. In 2007, an update pushed its water resistance to 12,800 feet, briefly making it the world’s deepest diving watch.
In looks, the Sea-Dweller resembles a bulked-up Submariner. Its diving abilities aren’t just a testament to the craftsmanship but Rolex’s dedication to ocean research.
Rolex Air-King
The underappreciated Rolex Air-King was released in 1958, following the success of the GMT-Master. Born in the 1930s, the original Air-King had enlarged 3, 6, and 9 numerals for mid-flight legibility, keeping it simpler than the GMT-Master. Over 65 years later, the Air-King has many versions, including an unexpected collaboration with Domino’s Pizza.
In the ’80s and ’90s, the Air-King earned the title of a ‘starter Rolex,” even at $800. They were even an employee incentive at Domino’s.
Today, those Domino’s Air-Kings, customised with the logo, are sold for up to $19K on the secondary market.
Rolex Milgauss
The Rolex Milgauss is another underappreciated iconic. Overlooked in the Rolex catalogue, this watch played a crucial role in labs like Bell Labs and CERN. It was named for its original a-magnetic rating of 1,000 gauss. Going out of production in 1988, it returned in 2007 with a larger case and a playful lightning bolt-shaped seconds hand.
Rolex Cellini Time
The Rolex Cellini Time was a departure from the robust tool watches that Rolex is known for. Named after the Renaissance sculptor and goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini, this watch represents his artistic spirit. With a sleek, round case and minimalist dial, the Cellini Time is categorised by slender hour markers, slim Roman numerals, and elegant sword-shaped hands. It’s also powered by Perpetual self-winding.
Conclusion
Rolex isn’t just a brand; it’s a legacy wrapped around your wrist. These 15 models tell a story about the brand’s craftsmanship and industry impact. Now that you know the iconic status of these watches, it’s time to take rapper Wiz Khalifa’s advice as he once said,
“Time is money, so I went, and bought a Rolex.”